When wallpapering, you always encounter difficult obstacles: doors, passageways, windows, wall sockets, heaters, or the entire stairwell. Do not worry: we have a solution for every problem zone and a difficult place in your house.
Measure out the last runway at the window at the reveal or at the frame plus a small safety allowance. Stick the wallpaper up to the frame and press the wallpaper gently on the frame and around the corner of the reveal. This makes the contours of the frame, the windowsill, reveal, etc. visible. With small scissors or a cutter knife, you cut all corners and edges neatly, after which you fold them inwards. You do the window niche in the same way: you cut the strips plus an allowance for the depth of the reveal. Cut off the excess wallpaper by the frame neatly according to the usual method.
Wallpapering always involves working from one side to a door. You cut the last track for the door frame to size, leaving a small overlap. When applying this strip, press this overlap against the frame, mark it with the back of a pair of scissors, pull it off again, and cut it exactly on the fold. Cut the wallpaper slightly at the top edge of the door frame, so that the wrap adapts to the angle – after all, the wallpaper is exactly the piece of the wrap above the door frame. Do not try to connect decor wallpaper on both sides of the door frames – this will never lead to a beautiful connection of the decor. Therefore, never start at a door if you are going to wallpaper.
Start building a work platform – after all, you should be able to get to all the corners. Place a ladder on one of the bottom steps of the stairs and lean it against the opposite wall, while placing a fold-out ladder on a higher step. With a scaffolding board, you connect one of the top rungs of the bottom ladder to one of the bottom rungs of the top ladder. If the gap to be bridged is larger than 1.5 meters, place two planks on top of each other. Tie the boards tightly so that it does not totter. Have two people hold the ladders. Move the construction while working on getting anywhere near the wall. A real jetty is, of course, safer. Start with the longest job and work your way up and down from there.
Wall light switches and sockets
Before you start working here, switch off the power in the meter cupboard. Then unscrew the cover plates of the light switches and sockets. Now you can easily wallpaper over this. Make sure that the contours of the socket penetrate into the wallpaper. Once the glue has dried, you can cut the wallpaper along the contours. You do this by making a cut in the shape of an x, but make sure that the hole is no larger than the cover plate itself. Cutaway the triangular pieces of wallpaper and replace the cover plate. Now you have a neat, smooth transition!
Wall lamp connection to the ceiling
With fixed lamp connections and other obstacles, you wallpaper until you get to the connection. Then cut the wallpaper from the point of the connection to the end so that you get two strips. Then stick the two strips to the ceiling in the usual way. If the obstacle is reasonably close to the edge of the track, you can also cut the track in the side and stick it around the obstacle. Neatly trim the edge of the wallpaper around the obstacle. This is best done with wallpaper scissors. If you still have to smear the wallpaper with glue, first cut the wallpaper to size.
The radiator must, of course, be switched off and cold before you start wallpapering. Wall-hanging behind a radiator can be tricky, especially when it’s close to the wall. Measure exactly where the holder and the tubes enter the wall. In these places, you have to cut the wallpaper vertically and wallpaper it further in strips. It is best to wallpaper behind radiators by hanging small weights (for example, for tablecloths) on the wallpaper and drop it behind the radiator. Press the wallpaper gently and straight with a long-handled roller against the wall behind the radiator.
Wallpapering the fuse box
You can’t just unscrew a fuse box. So he has to be saved. Measure its exact position and cut the wallpaper X-shaped in the relevant place, make the hole 1-2 mm larger than the case. This way, you minimize the danger of the wallpaper tearing when fitting. When applying the appropriate lane, carefully fold the cut spot over the cabinet. Then the triangular pieces are cut out, and the edges around the cabinet pressed with a seam roller.
If no corner protector has been bricked in during construction, you can protect corners with an angle profile. Such protective rails are available in different colors and materials. The most inconspicuous is a thin PVC corner. Glue this to the wall with wallpaper glue and tightly remove the transitions to the wall. Then you can go wallpaper.